The long slog north – Cairns to Lizard Island.

Lizard Island. The Lagoon on the windward side of the island.

The wind is relentless. Every day 20-30kts, gusts of 45 and maybe 50 knots of “breeze” as we make our way north. The noise is constant and exhausting, and the boat is always moving. It doesn’t look very far on the chart, but from Cairns to Thursday Island (at the top of the Cape York Peninsula) is 450nm.  Lizard Island is not even half way. I’m getting grumpy. I think the wind has gotten into my channels😵‍💫

Imogen, keen for an adventure.

We left Cairns on Saturday the 8th of July, with great memories of connecting with family, and we all enjoyed what Cairns had to offer. It’s very happening little city. The boat is packed with provisions, fuel and water…and our extra crew member, Imogen. Imogen is the daughter of our “Old Best Friends”, Mark and Helen, who are on their boat in the Mediterranean. Imogen flew up from Melbourne keen for an adventure with the old people. We hope to get her to Darwin, but if time gets away on us, we’ll at least get her to Thursday Island.

Low Islets.

Our first stop on the slog north was the Low Islets, 35nm north of Cairns. A pleasant enough place to anchor for the night, but we didn’t go ashore as it was too hard to launch the dinghy in reinforced trade winds. The following day in 30kts of wind and a further 42nm north, we stopped at the Hope Islands. We picked up a mooring here. Although the wind was howling we were very comfortable, deciding to stay an extra day, hoping for the wind to abate. It was a day filled with baking banana cake, playing Bananagrams, reading and watching a movie.

From Hope Islands, we had a rough sail to the wretched Cape Bedford, which is on the mainland. Shallow, muddy and rolly as we perched on the end of the peninsula in a metre of water. I want to expunge that dreadful place from my mind! None of us got a wink of sleep, and still the wind was howling as the boat rolled , bucked and snatched on the snubbing line. We couldn’t get out of there fast enough. At first light we set sail for the 37nm to Lizard Island.

Lizard Island is the Holy Grail of Australian Coastal cruisers. It’s bloody beaudiful, mate!There’s a very exclusive resort on the island. Guests fly in by 12 seater plane. This area has been sacred to the Dingaal Aboriginal people for thousands of years as a place where young people were initiated. Its traditional name is Jiigurru. Captain James Cook also visited here and charted the area. The only animals that he saw were goannas, hence he named the place Lizard Island. Not only are there land lizards here, but a 2-3 metre croc was spotted yesterday. Kind of puts me off going snorkelling.

4 responses to “The long slog north – Cairns to Lizard Island.”

  1. Aye – the wind’s a double-edged sword alright….. my old Ferro-cement yacht revelled in such conditions (at 22 tons) needing at least 17 kts of puff to get her skirts up. Very wearing though I agree and easy to be over-pressed when caught out by those big gusts. Enjoy though! That’s what you’re there for! 🙂 Wait for the currents AND the wind at Thursday Island…….. 🙂 I’m cruising vicariously through you so hope the wind dies a little for you. Beautiful area alright. Cheers, G

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    1. Just made it to the top! Looking forward to TI and Horn Island tomorrow.

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  2. Monday it is and here you are.
    Honestly, it sounds pretty exhausting and wouldn’t I know.
    Just by chance I looked in the little book I wrote about our sailing experience and puh did I threw tantrums after a very challenging 30 days of sailing from the Galápagos Islands to the Marquesa Islands.
    The island of Fatu Hiva became a Fata Morgana in squally conditions,the anchorage was a nightmare,we had to go anchor watches and I cried my heart out and hatet sailing with a vengeance!!!
    But as you know, we continued for many more years with lots of wonderful sailing memories and friends.
    Seems you will have some more challenges ahead we are with you all the way
    Es ist unglaublich!!
    Umarmt und geherzt

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    1. Just made it today to Torres Strait. We’re anchored at Adolphus Island. Will give you a call tomorrow when we’re back in civilization!😘

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