
The wind is relentless. Every day 20-30kts, gusts of 45 and maybe 50 knots of “breeze” as we make our way north. The noise is constant and exhausting, and the boat is always moving. It doesn’t look very far on the chart, but from Cairns to Thursday Island (at the top of the Cape York Peninsula) is 450nm. Lizard Island is not even half way. I’m getting grumpy. I think the wind has gotten into my channels😵💫

We left Cairns on Saturday the 8th of July, with great memories of connecting with family, and we all enjoyed what Cairns had to offer. It’s very happening little city. The boat is packed with provisions, fuel and water…and our extra crew member, Imogen. Imogen is the daughter of our “Old Best Friends”, Mark and Helen, who are on their boat in the Mediterranean. Imogen flew up from Melbourne keen for an adventure with the old people. We hope to get her to Darwin, but if time gets away on us, we’ll at least get her to Thursday Island.

Our first stop on the slog north was the Low Islets, 35nm north of Cairns. A pleasant enough place to anchor for the night, but we didn’t go ashore as it was too hard to launch the dinghy in reinforced trade winds. The following day in 30kts of wind and a further 42nm north, we stopped at the Hope Islands. We picked up a mooring here. Although the wind was howling we were very comfortable, deciding to stay an extra day, hoping for the wind to abate. It was a day filled with baking banana cake, playing Bananagrams, reading and watching a movie.
From Hope Islands, we had a rough sail to the wretched Cape Bedford, which is on the mainland. Shallow, muddy and rolly as we perched on the end of the peninsula in a metre of water. I want to expunge that dreadful place from my mind! None of us got a wink of sleep, and still the wind was howling as the boat rolled , bucked and snatched on the snubbing line. We couldn’t get out of there fast enough. At first light we set sail for the 37nm to Lizard Island.

Lizard Island is the Holy Grail of Australian Coastal cruisers. It’s bloody beaudiful, mate!There’s a very exclusive resort on the island. Guests fly in by 12 seater plane. This area has been sacred to the Dingaal Aboriginal people for thousands of years as a place where young people were initiated. Its traditional name is Jiigurru. Captain James Cook also visited here and charted the area. The only animals that he saw were goannas, hence he named the place Lizard Island. Not only are there land lizards here, but a 2-3 metre croc was spotted yesterday. Kind of puts me off going snorkelling.


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