We’ve been in San Remo for over two months, and I’m starting to get used to some of the strange Italian ways. English is not widely spoken, so many things get a bit lost in translation. Thank goodness for Google Translate.

Here are a few examples of day to day life that made me completely cofused, laugh, or throw my hands up in Italian-like frustration. Mamma mia!
Dogs are welcome everywhere: Dogs can be found in the supermarkets (with their own trolleys provided), on public transport, in restaurants, at airports, and on planes. I love this! All dogs seem to wear trendy Italian clothes and puffer jackets. Christmas themed jumpers and hats are popular right now, and sometimes, the owners and dogs have matching outfits. It’s very entertaining watching the fashion conscious dog community parade along the main drag. Dogs are often trundled round in strollers or in baskets or trailers on bikes. The only downside is that you need to watch where you’re walking.🐕💩 Most dogs seem quite well-behaved.

Shops close at midday: I can’t tell you how many times this has caught me out. It’s actually a very civilised way to break up the day. Everyone sits down to eat, often with a little aperitif. The cafes seem to be full in the middle of the day. Some people go home… maybe for a hot lunch. Then everything opens again at 3 pm until 7 pm.

The evening meal is late: Most restaurants do not open until 7.30 pm. We’ve tried to get a lunchtime pizza….impossible! The pizza oven doesn’t fire up until late afternoon. As New Zealanders, we’re starving by 6 pm. Families with children are still out, and about at 11 pm. Our kids would’ve been in tears and bouncing off the walls by that time, and we all know that “Yachty’s Midnight” is 9 pm.

Coffee culture: but not as we know it in New Zealand. I’ve never seen a takeaway coffee cup, with people sipping their flat whites or lattes as they walk or drive. Coffee is black, strong, and in a piccolo cup. It is chugged down in one mouthful, followed by a glass of water whilst standing at the counter of the cafe. Done and dusted in 20 seconds.

Bread and wine are sold by the kilo: at the supermarket, the price of bread is by the kilo. You choose your loaf or bread roll, place it in a paper bag, put it on the electronic scales, and out pops the label. Mi dispiace, Italia, but your bread isn’t great.
If you go to a restaurant, the vino della casa is also sold by the kilo: “Mezzo chilo di vino rosso della casa, per favore.” Half a kilo is about 3 glasses.

When receiving change in a shop, the money is never placed in the customer’s hand: the money is always placed on the counter or on a little tray, never in my outstretched hand. It is apparently a deeply ingrained tradition, mostly about hygiene. It is considered to be rude for money to be placed in a hand. Apparently, I should do the same when paying by cash. I should place the money on the counter or the little tray.
Never, ever break spaghetti before putting it in the pot of boiling water: or you’ll cause an Italian heart to break. OK! I would never do that anyway. Nothing is more satisfying than twirling spaghetti round your fork.

Italians hate paying tax and avoid it at all cost: When trying to get the best price for getting work done or buying big ticket items, there is lots of tutting, chin-rubbing, and head-shaking. Negotiations start when they ask, “Do you need a receipt?” Suddenly, the price comes down.
A consequence of tax avoidance is that stuff doesn’t work properly or doesn’t get fixed. There are potholes in the road, and buildings are crumbling, but not paying tax seems to be a national game.

We’ve found the people of the Liguria region to be friendly, caring, generous, and family-focussed. Sanremo is a beautiful town with ordinary, hardworking folk going about their daily business. They are very proud of their local culture, history, and cuisine. Even though the winter has been cold, we’ve enjoyed being “locals” and navigating our way through all things Italian.

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